#Blood bowl bases how to

My swap bases have a very bright green drybrush applied sporadically to give the effect of bright glowing fungus. There’s still a lot of crud that’s going to go over these. You don’t really need to worry too much about brushstrokes, smeared paint, or sloppy drybrushing. A light drybrush of Ushabiti Bone is used to pick out the texture of the mud. Then I do a heavy drybrush with Caliban Green. Large debris should be done before the base colors, grass at the end.įirst I paint the entire base in Rhinox Hide. If you’re going to add things like mulch (wood chips), debris, or grass it should be during this step. Those that don’t still have natural pooling areas, however.

Not everything has a clear pool though I ensure I had a couple that entirely ring the base. I like flat ends for smearing, and anything resembling a scoop to help grab more gunk.Īs you can see, there is a large variety in the textures I’ve applied. A set of cheap dentist tools is your friend here. I use both Stirland Mud and Stirland Battlemire to get the effects I want. I’ll get more into it later, but Water Effects is viscous enough to hold together in a dome/bubble over the top of the base however its much easier to manage if you create a wall or dam with mud effects to hold it in.

The second purpose is to create pools for the realistic water effects. You’ll want globs of mud smeared everywhere and rising up out of the water to give it a convincing look. The first is to provide a texture swamps aren’t flat. I decided to do most of my bases separate from the model and only leave the model on for the tall spindly units. There’s the risk it ruins things, however. Done well, it can look like robes or bits have picked up water from the surrounding area. However, it’s much trickier to do Realistic Water Effects will change the look of any part of the model it comes in contact with. Doing so can make the model look like it’s sunken in to the marshy gloop which is a very cool effect. When doing any base, but particularly something like a swamp, the first decision you need to make is weather or not you’re going to leave the model glued to the base. It also gave me the opportunity to take some pictures for this tutorial. I find bases to be easier to do in one large batch so I held off on doing any until the end. I recently completed a 2,000 point army Gloomspite Gitz. On top of those I may add an additional wash, one or more technical paint effects, basing details like grass or tufts, and even objects from the yard like mulch. However, swamps are not homogeneous environments. I use-at minimum-four paint colors, water effects, and one wash on each base. Overall, this is a fairly easy process though it does require a number of different products.

#Blood bowl bases how to

In this installment of How to Base Everything, I’ll go over how I achieve my swamp effects. An army of goblins make take residence in a gloomy fetid marshland outside a city. In the fiction, Plague Marines (and the rest of Nurgle’s minions) often bring decay and swamp with them regardless of where they fight. They’re an opportunity to provide contrast and texture, and they can also ground your models in a shared narrative. In this week’s How to Base Everything, Raf Cordero is talking about how me makes wet, swampy bases.īases do a lot of heavy lifting in the overall appearance of your model. Your basing helps tell the story of your army – where are they fighting and why? In the spin-off How to Base Everything series, we look at different methods for basing your miniatures, so that you can locate them in time and space. Armies on the battlefields of the 41st Millennium or the Mortal Realms will find themselves fighting across a wide variety of terrain, from lush jungles to barren rockscapes, industrial wastelands to agrarian fields. Basing is a critical part of the painting process.